Glossary

Measurement in degrees of the movement of a balance and spring assembly: amplitude is the angle between the position of equilibrium and its maximum elongation.

Refers to time display using hands

Dial opening revealing the indications provided on discs rotating under the dial.

Raised numeral or hour-marker, applied to or riveted to the dial. At Patek Philippe, appliques are always in gold and are sometimes diamond-set.

An activity carried out by the Grand Complications workshop. The watchmakers themselves perform certain finishing operations such as polishing steel parts or chamfering bridges.

A collection inspired by the Nautilus, created in 1996. It is distinguished by the complexity of its case shape, equipped with a screw-down crown, framing a superbly finished black textured dial. Aquanaut watches are available in three sizes (small, medium and large) and in two versions (gold and steel), on a "Tropical" composite strap or metal bracelet.

Usual way of showing the numerals. Arabic numerals: 1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.0. As opposed to Roman numerals: I, II,III...

Elongated part linking certain parts of a mechanism within a movement (such as the arm of a wheel, for example).

An artistic movement stemming from the Decorative Arts Exhibition in Paris in 1925, which asserts a taste for straight lines and the geometrical interpretation of nature's forms.

See also "horns."

The lower part of the case, fixed beneath the case middle. The case, either in metal or in sapphire crystal to reveal the movement, may be of the screw-down, snap-on, screw-on or hinged dust cover type.

A gemstone cut.

Disc-shaped escapement component. The balance roller receives the impulses from the pallets via its impulse-pin.

The regulating organ of a mechanical movement. The balance and spring assembly, composed of a balance and a balance-spring, oscillates under the impetus of the escapement. In Patek Philippe watches, balance and spring assemblies are generally of the Gyromax type.

Synonymous with a balance-bridge. The balance-cock has a special shape, from which it gets its name, which reveals the balance.

Small spring coiled into a spiral, an integral part of the balance and spring assembly.

Mechanical device enabling two parts to roll over each other instead of sliding.

The part of a mechanical movement that enables the accumulation of energy. The barrel is composed of a wheel and drum (cylindrical case) with a cover. It houses the mainspring which coils around the barrel arbor under the impetus of the ratchet wheel.

The stem around which the mainspring coils.

The lateral wall of the barrel, fitted with a hook to receive the mainspring.

Central plate of the movement, made in brass or nickel silver, on which the movement components are assembled. The upper side of the base plate is the side facing the case back which receives the movement parts. The under side of the base plate is the side facing the dial.

Refers to hour markers or hands featuring the elongated shape of a baton.

A German school of architecture and applied arts, renowned for having initiated the artistic movement which holds that function determines form. The Bauhaus was founded in 1919 by Walter Gropius in Weimar.

A hydrocarbon with solvent properties.

Upper part of the case which holds the glass. It is fixed above the case middle.

A Swiss word with French roots (basically meaning "to make well") which refers to the good quality of a piece of work or an object.

Optical enlargement instrument with twin eyepieces enabling one to look with both eyes at once.

See "Machining"

A protective varnish used to coat all parts of the case and metal bracelet after polishing.

A kind of support or rest.

A polishing and cold-rolling process for pivots to make them smooth and reduce friction.

Movement part fixed to the base plate, in which the pivot of mobile parts turn. Generally speaking, bridges are named after the mobile parts they carry. Among the easiest to recognise is the balance-cock.

The most widely used cut for diamonds. It comprises 57 facets, meaning 1 table surrounded with 32 facets for the crown and 24 for the culet.

Engraver's chisel.

Style of chain bracelet, made from gold threads. This type of bracelet is found on the Golden Ellipse 4931/2 watch.

Abbreviation for "calendar" = simple date = simple calendar in the Patek Philippe typology.

Refers to a hand shaped like a cable.

A complication that provides the various indications of the conventional calendar such as the date, the date, the week, the month and the year. Patek Philippe watches include:

Originally synonymous with size or dimensions. Watchmakers then began to use the term to refer to the movement. Patek Philippe has 14 base calibres. They are used either as they are or to serve as a "base" for additional developments or functions. There are thus 36 different calibres for wristwatches and 6 for pocket watches in regular production within the Manufacture.

In a movement, the pinion that controls the motion-work (the gear train that drives the hour, minute and seconds hands).

A disc with a special profile on which a sprung lever rests.

A unit of the gold purity index for gold alloys. Pure or fine gold weighs 24 carats. Watches and jewellery are crafted from 18-carat or 750 gold, an alloy containing 18/24ths or 75% of pure gold. A unit of weight for precious stones. One carat corresponds to 0.2 grams.

The watch case is generally composed of three parts: the case middle, the bezel and the case back.

The middle part of the case, placed between the bezel and the back. It houses the movement.

See "gong"

Ring surrounding the movement and holding it inside the case.

Complication that provides a representation of the sky, as it may be observed at night. Also known as sky chart, it enables one to follow the positions of the stars and that of the moon and to visualise the various phases.

Abbreviation for "chronograph" in the Patek Philippe typology.

A bracelet for which the links are produced one by one from a gold wire.

Cutting and polishing an edge between the surface and the flank of certain movement parts, for aesthetic purposes. Chamfering underscores the shape of a part and, once the components are assembled, the light plays over them in an extremely attractive way. Chamfering is a term used in watchmaking, as well as in marquetry-work and cabinet-making.

Hand engraving technique. Champlevé consists of hollowing out a metal plate with a flat graver, thus forming small cavities to receive the enamel.

Small tube into which one inserts a pin to form a hinge.

Abbreviation of "split seconds chronograph" in the Patek Philippe typology.

Watch complication enabling measurement of the duration of an event. A classic chronograph comprises a chronograph or seconds hand circling the dial and another hand adding up the minutes on a counter or totaliser. Some have additional counters. Be careful not to confuse a chronograph with a chronometer!

A watch featuring high precision certified by an official body. In Switzerland, rating certificates are granted, on a one-by-one basis, by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). Be careful not to confuse a chronometer with a chronograph!

Decorating the surface of bridges and plates with interlacing circular motifs (like tiles on a roof). Circular graining is performed using a round abrasive polisher.

Forming fine circular lines on the surface of certain brass or nickel silver parts, for aesthetic purposes. A circular satin finish is achieved using a hand lathe or emery paper.

Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora. This agreement between nations is intended to ensure that international trade in specimens of wild plants and animals does not threaten the survival of the species to which they belong. Patek Philippe watch straps are made from the leather of farmed animals subject to the CITES.

Abbreviation for celestial canopy (or sky chart) in the Patek Philippe typology.

See "Enamel"

See "Hobnail pattern".

Acronym for Computerised Numerical Control

Central element of the split seconds chronograph mechanism which gives the various parts (operating-lever hook, hammer, coupling lever and brake) their appropriate positions.

Refers to a flaw on exterior parts: material slightly hollowed around a tiny burr.

Button integrated within the case middle, which is pressed using the setting stylus to adjust certain specific functions.

Relating to a sequence, a well ordered succession (as opposed to simultaneous).

Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute

See Geneva stripes

In a classic chronograph, a subdial indicating the time elapsed in minutes. There are also counters for hours or fractions of a second.

A button (which is often fluted), operated between the thumb and forefinger that is pulled into various positions and turned, generally to set the time or adjust the date. On mechanical watches, the crown (or winding crown) also serves to wind the movement. See: Winding crown.

See "Glass"

Gemstone cut: an essential element in highlighting the stones.. The proportions chosen determine three physical phenomena: internal reflection, diffraction or dispersion, and scintillation or fire. Professionals have established a scale for evaluating the quality of cuts. Patek Philippe uses only the best, referred to as "very good" and "excellent".

Achieving a shape by cutting out on a Computerised Numerical Control machine or by stamping/pressing.

This operation is performed by means of a milling-cutter. This tool performs two movements: a rotating movement linked to that of the wheel and pinion to be cut, and a lengthwise movement (in the direction of the axis of the mobile part).

Complication that displays the date of Easter according to this rule: the first Sunday after the full moon which follows the spring equinox. The patented mechanism is housed within the Calibre 89 watch.

Refers to hands with an elongated triangular shape.

Precious stone: pure crystallised carbon, generally colourless, occasionally pink, yellow or blue in colour. A diamond, which is exceptionally hard, scratches all other bodies, but can only be scratched by itself. Patek Philippe uses the highest quality of diamonds, determined by the combination of what are known as the "4 Cs" : Colour, Clarity (purity), Cut (shape) and Carat (weight). On the colour grading scale established by diamond professionals, Top Wesselton internally flawless diamonds corresponds to diamonds rated F (rare white +) or G (rare white), loupe-clean when enlarged 10 times.

Plate with a metal base, visible through a glass, which carries certain indications such as the hours, minutes and seconds. On Patek Philippe watches, dials are generally in brass. The exceptions are those that are gold coloured, sun burst blue and models paved with precious stones, which are made from solid gold plates. Particular care is devoted to their finish. They may be galvanised, embossed, guilloché, painted, metallic, opaline-white, gem-set or genuine enamel.

Steel plate representing the hollowed reproduction of a part to be cut out or stamped. The material placed on the die takes its shape by being struck with a punch.

In watchmaking, refers to display by means of numbers with no hands.

Flat, thin disc carrying the indications which are successively displayed through an aperture as the disc rotates under the dial.

Stage no. 6 in the working of any watch: in either a mechanical watch or a quartz watch, the display is shown by hands or through apertures, driven by a gear train.

A mathematical ratio of homogenous size symbolising the perfect equilibrium of shapes to (1/1.6181). Also known as "the golden section", it forms the basis of the design of the Golden Ellipse.

Penetrating, passing through.

Preparation for gem-setting by forming the holes that will accommodate the stones. This operation is a machining operation.

See "Time zones"

Abbreviation of "Electronic" in the Patek Philippe typology.

See "Date of Easter"

Chemical decomposition achieved by the action of an electric current. Certain metals are electrolysed in order to apply them on others in fine layers.

Translucent substance that takes on various colours by adding metallic oxides. When fired in the furnace, it adheres to metal and acquires the consistency of glass. It may be applied in a single colour on certain dials. Figurative painting is also used to create decorative motifs. On Patek Philippe watches, these decorative motifs are generally created using two techniques:

Stage no. 1 in the working of any watch:

Stamping a motif in metal with imprints embossed using a press.

Green coloured gemstone, a variety of beryl. Most widely used gemstone cut for emeralds.

Abrasive mixture coated on paper. Emery paper is used in particular for polishing, smoothing down and creating a circular satin finish.

Stage no. 3 in the working of any watch: in both mechanical and quartz watches, the energy is transmitted by a gear train which simultaneously divides up time. In the former case, it is powered by the mainspring; and in the latter, by a stepping motor.

Decorative technique consisting of hollowing out the matter to create various motifs, on various metal parts of the watch exterior or the movement.

Abbreviation of "Equation of time" in the Patek Philippe typology.

Complication which indicates the difference between conventional time (mean time) and the time determined by the position of the sun (real time). This difference ranges between –16 and + 14 minutes, depending on the day of the year.

The date when the duration of the day is equal to that of the night. There are two equinoxes per year which correspond to the start of spring and that of autumn.

The organ of a mechanical movement that enables distribution of energy step by step (and not all at once). The escapement, composed of a wheel with a special shape (curved teeth) and pallets, maintains the oscillations of the regulating organ, the balance and spring assembly.

Banking of a lever escapement when it is cut out of the plate and is not in the form of pins (solid banking). This term is specific to Geneva watchmaking.

Set of external parts of a watch: case, dial, hands, glass, crown, strap/bracelet, etc. (to the exclusion of movement components).

Having facets, such as on gemstones.

Coloured diamond.

Fine working the case: hand finishing operations comprising trimming, soldering the lugs, creating (where necessary) hinges for the cover and preparing for polishing. Fine working the watch: casing up

Refers to the work of a company that buys watch components from outside and only handles assembly, adjustment, fitting the hands and casing up. One must distinguish between a finishing workshop as opposed to a Manufacture.

At Patek Philippe, this term encompasses a set of finishing operations performed by hand on watch parts, in keeping with the Geneva tradition. Most of the finishing operations which contribute high value added, are mandatory to obtain the Geneva Seal.

See "Enamel"

Tip of the pallets which alternately pushes the impulse-pin placed under the balance and spring assembly so as to maintain its oscillations.

A clasp that opens by folding over, without being detached from the two parts of the bracelet.

Number of oscillations per second. Frequency is expressed in Hertz (Hz). 1 hertz = 1 oscillation = 2 vibrations per second.

Abbreviation for time zone in the Patek Philippe typology.

Technique for plating metal by electrolysis. For example, the bridges and plates are protected from oxidation by a fine layer of rhodium.

Gear train composed of wheels and toothed pinions.

Set of wheels driven in an interdependent movement., . The gear-train generally called the going train is the one that transmits energy and divides up time. It comprises the hour wheel, the minute wheel and the seconds wheel. Variable sets of wheels result in reduction and in different speeds of rotation.

Specialist of fine stones and precious stones, scientifically called "gems".

Craftsman who sets fine stones or precious stones.

Adorning with fine stones or precious stones. On watches, the stones are fitted into the recesses, which are small holes formed earlier during the machining process, and they are then immobilised by pushing back the material around them.

Official label of quality granted by the authorities of Geneva to certain deserving Geneva-made products. In particular, it rewards mechanical watches endowed with exceptional quality of execution. Its regulations, in force since 1886, are probably the most rigorous applied to a manufactured product. All Patek Philippe mechanical movements are honoured with this label.

Famous wavelike decorative pattern created on the bridges and oscillating weights of Patek Philippe watches. The tool required is crafted from boxwood by the craftsman himself, coated in abrasive paste and then pressed manually in order to remove an extremely small amount of material.

Thin transparent plate through which one reads off the time, and which protects the dial. A glass may also be fitted on the case back to reveal the movement. The glasses used for Patek Philippe watches are always in scratch-resistant sapphire and may thus also be referred to as sapphire crystals.

Coating with a thin film of gold.

Collection characterised by an elliptical case, inspired by the golden section. This "divine proportion" is not a measurement, but a mathematical ratio of homogenous size corresponding to 1/1.6181 and symbolising the perfect equilibrium of shapes. Golden Ellipse watches were created in 1968 for men, and ladies' versions were subsequently introduced.

Striking mechanism part:

See "Striking mechanism"

A pointed tool for engraving.

A disc used for polishing, coated with an abrasive substance.

Engraved ornamental pattern composed of regularly intersecting hollowed lines. Among the most famous is the "Clous de Paris" or hobnail pattern found on the bezels of Calatrava watches. At Patek Philippe, they are created with lathes, many of them very old, operated by hand.

A system of adjusting the balance and spring assembly, patented by Patek Philippe in 1949 and 1951. The Gyromax balance and spring assembly, which equips the company's mechanical movements, replaces the traditional index-assembly or regulator-assembly system. The adjustment depends on the direction of the asymmetrical inertia-blocks placed on the balance-ring, enabling one to modify a watch which is gaining or losing time.

Refers to a hand that looks somewhat like a hair.

A component in striking watches: Hammers are small levers with a weight at one end which strike gongs to produce sounds.

Metal part which points to various indications on the dial. At Patek Philippe, it may take a variety of shapes and forms, including dauphine, Breguet, leaf, baton, hair, pear, cabled or Louis XV.

Refers to the steel parts used in movements: See "Hardening".

Modification of the molecular structure of the steel part in order to make it harder or more flexible. Firing it in the furnace at a temperature of 800°C and then cooling it down quickly in oil at around 40°C make the metal harder, but also more brittle. To stabilise the material, it is reheated to various temperatures and for various lengths of time, depending on the flexibility required for the function the part is to serve.

Gemstone cut.

Steel part enabling the return in one or the other direction of the chronograph hand and/or the split seconds chronograph hand.

Unit of frequency of a movement.

Abbreviation for "hour shown through an aperture" in the Patek Philippe typology.

Motif forming small pyramid shapes which is among the most famous types of guilloché work, engraved ornamentation composed of regularly interwoven hollowed lines.

Symbolic character serving to indicate the subdivisions of time, on the dial. The hour markers, whether pointed baton or rounded baton, may be flat (painted) or raised (appliques). They are to be distinguished from numerals, which are characters representing numbers.

Abbreviation for "Jumping Hour", in the Patek Philippe typology.

Abbreviation for "World Time", in the Patek Philippe typology.

Pocket watch with a cover, which is distinguished by a winding stem at 3 o'clock and a seconds hand placed along the 12 o'clock – 6 o'clock axis.

Cylindrical, elongated escapement part, generally made from ruby. The impulse pin receives the impulses given by the pallet-fork. It is fixed to the roller, under the balance-spring for which it serves to maintain the oscillations.

Traditional system for adjusting the balance and spring assembly. In Patek Philippe movements, apart from calibre 16-250, it is replaced by an exclusive system named Gyromax.

Small asymmetrical metal part which acts by inertia. The Gyromax balance and spring assembly, patented by Patek Philippe, is poised thanks to adjustable inertia-blocks. This equilibrium governs the regularity of rate of the movement, with a minimum gain or loss.

Regulates the speed of rotation in striking watches.

Component of quartz movements which powers the electrical organs, transmits energy to the stepping motor and divides up the frequency of the quartz.

Mode of operation of the various Grand Complications workshops at Patek Philippe, which work as self-contained units or production islands. The watchmakers individually finish the movement parts, assemble the calibres, the complications and proceed to fine working the watches.

Abbreviation for power reserve indicator, a complication which displays the time left during which a mechanical movement can continue to run without winding.

A complication invented by Patek Philippe, the IZR, or state of winding indicator, shows the best moment to wind a self-winding watch. Be careful not to confuse IZR and IRM!

In a movement, a synthetic ruby that serves to reduce friction on the staffs of the pivots. Jewels belong to the "other parts" category.

Steel part that locks certain wheels, known as star wheels, by resting against their teeth. Also known as a jumper spring.

Hour appearing in an aperture thanks to a rotating disc, and which replaces an hour hand. It is referred to as "jumping" since, every hour on the hour, it changes by jumping abruptly from one numeral to the next.

Machine tool used to fashion parts by causing them to rotate. Lathes may be operated by hand or automatically.

Synonymous with pinion tooth. Term used in watchmaking to refer to a hand shaped like a leaf.

In our calendar, a year when the month of February has 29 days instead of 28. Generally speaking, leap years occur every 4 years. Century years, which are multiples of 100, are an exception: only those divisible by 400 are leap years.

Pivoting part subject to the action of a spring.

A hand engraving technique. Fine line engraving, made with a burin.

Refers to a hand with Louis XV style motif.

Abbreviation for "moon phases" in the Patek Philippe typology.

Parts extending from the case middle between which a spring bar holds the strap or bracelet.

Which emits light and is therefore visible at night. The luminescent substance, applied by Patek Philippe on the hands, numerals or hour markers, is non radioactive.

Synonymous with cutting out. Working or fashioning raw material. Forming holes and recesses, milling, turning, drilling and threading are all machining operations. At Patek Philippe, the watch parts are machined on computerised numerical control machines.

Motor spring of a mechanical movement. As it coils inside the barrel, it accumulates energy. As it uncoils, it transmits the energy to the hands via a gear-train. In Patek Philippe watches, the mainspring is fitted with a slipping spring when the movement is self-winding.

A manually wound movement is a mechanical movement that is wound by hand (using the winding crown).

Refers to a company that makes a watch in its entirety: conception, development, production, assembly and adjustment. One speaks of a Manufacture as opposed to a finishing workshop.

Elongated gemstone cut, synonymous with navette cut.

A bracelet with metal links produced on CNC machinery.

Combination of parts which, together, operate a function. A watch movement comprises several mechanisms.

Refers to a flawed appearance on watch exterior parts: a tiny, almost invisible scratch.

Removing matter with a milling-cutter.

See "Enamel"

See "Striking mechanism".

The minute track is the mode of displaying the minutes (railway track).

Describes the particularly soft and luminous result of polishing. Mirror polish is also called black or specular polish.

A complication which depicts the evolution of the moon, as seen from the earth. The indication is generally shown in an aperture, but may sometimes by displayed by a hand.

In a movement, the motion-work is the gear train which drives the hour, minute and seconds hands.

There are three types of movements, or calibres, which drive Patek Philippe watches:

Stage no. 5 in the working of any watch:

A collection, for men and ladies, created in 1976. Nautilus watches are characterised by the shape of their monobloc case: an octagonal ship's porthole secured by four lateral screws to ensure that it is perfectly sealed and water-resistant. Each of its eight sides is subtly curved to trace a perfect arc of a circle, forming the contours of a great classic.

Elongated gemstone cut, synonymous with the marquise cut.

Copper, zinc and nickel alloy, oxidises less easily than brass.

Water-resistance norm equivalent to the international ISO-2291 norm. All Patek Philippe watches are tested to around 20% more than the guaranteed value. For example, a watch that is water-resistant to a depth of 25 metres has been tested at a pressure of 3 bars, meaning 30 metres (1 bar = 10 metres).

Character representing a number used to indicate the units of time on the dial. The Arabic, Roman or Breguet style numerals may be flat (painted) or raised (appliques). They are different from symbolic characters such as hour markers.

Fine gemstone, a variety of agate featuring regular concentric zones of various colours. The crowns of Twenty-4 steel watches are set with an onyx.

A solid white finish with a silky rendreing. It is achieved by spraying a silvery coating of powder before applying a transparent layer.

In a mechanical watch, the movement of the balance and spring assembly in both directions, to and fro. In a quartz watch, the double vibration of the quartz. One oscillation comprises two vibrations.

See "Rotor".

Patek Philippe refers to a certain number of movement parts, apart from the plates, bridges, gear trains and steel parts, as "other parts".

Gemstone cut.

Extremely hard white metal. In Patek Philippe watches, it is used instead of nickel in the composition of white gold.

A steel or brass part within a mechanical watch shaped like a ship's anchor. It makes up the escapement together with a special-shaped wheel with curved teeth, called the pallet wheel".

Antoine Norbert de Patek (1812-1877). A Pole who settled in Geneva in 1835. He took an interest in highly valuable pocket watches and acquired a significant clientele. In 1839, he founded Patek, Czapek & Cie. He then met watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe in 1844 and suggested that they become associates. He then changed the name of the Manufacture in 1845 to become Patek & Cie. It only became Patek Philippe & Cie in 1851.

See "Striking mechanism"

Jean Adrien Philippe (1815-1894). A French watchmaker who invented the keyless winding and time-setting system in 1842. He met Antoine Norbert de Patek in 1844 in Paris, during an exhibition of his invention. He joined Patek in Geneva the following year. Founded on May 15th 1845, the Patek & Cie company became Patek Philippe & Cie in 1851.

A property of certain crystals such as quartz. The piezo-electricity of quartz means that it is deformed and vibrates under the effect of a low-intensity electric current. Its vibrations are remarkably constant.

A toothed movement part which, combined with a wheel plate, forms a wheel. On Patek Philippe watches, the pinions are in hardened steel. Their teeth are polished by hand on a wooden grinding-wheel coated with abrasive paste. The end of the pinion is polished on a leather grinding-wheel.

Small cylindrical pegs driven in, used for fixing, guiding or stopping.

A pointed metal prong which goes through various holes in the leather, on traditional straps.

Fastens the strap. A metal buckle composed of a ring or rectangle and a prong called a pin.

Hollow metal cylindrical part used for many purposes (pivoting, supporting arbors, protecting parts, etc.) Pipes belong to the category of "other parts".

Movement component which rotates in a fixed support.

Small stem or rod.

Method of depositing or transferring metal on the dial, for a specific surface rendering.

Precious metal. 950 platinum (95% pure platinum and 5% other metals) is used for making watches. It is the hardest material of all to work and tools often break in the process. It takes three to four times longer than working gold.

May refer to a flaw on watch exterior parts: a small burr.

Rendering a surface smooth and shiny, by means of substances with varying degrees of abrasiveness. In movements, various parts are polished not merely for aesthetic purposes, but also for technical reasons (to reduce friction). Polishing is a crucial stage in making watch exteriors. At Patek Philippe, it is performed by hand and "free floating" (meaning without any pressure), for hours on end.

Tool or machine used to polish or to create certain decorative motifs such as circular-graining.

See "Relief".

A complication that indicates the state of the power reserve: the time during which a mechanical movement can continue running without being rewound, ranging from 48 hours to 10 days for Patek Philippe watches.

Pre-assembling bridges means driving the jewels into the sunk holes.

Gemstone cut, with a square base.

Cutting parts, particularly pinions, from rotating cylindrical metal bars, using dedicated tools.

Red varnish placed in the hollows of gilded numbers and logos in order to protect them from subsequent surface treatments.

Abbreviation for "small seconds" in the Patek Philippe typology.

Sharp-edged tool which stamps the material placed on a die, during the cutting out or pressing process.

A button pressed with the finger to activate certain functions, such as those of a chronograph.

Abbreviation for "Perpetual Calendar" in the Patek Philippe typology.

Abbreviation for "Annual Calendar" in the Patek Philippe typology.

Abbreviation for "Perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand" in the Patek Philippe typology.

Abbreviation for "Minute repeater", in the Patek Philippe typology.

Steel part with straight toothing used in triggering the minute-repeater mechanism.

Peripheral indication of the minutes on the dial reminiscent of the rails on a railway track.

A toothed wheel fixed by a square hole to the barrel arbor. It is placed between the crown wheel and the barrel arbor.

Abbreviation for the "Rectangular shape" of calibres in the Patek Philippe typology.

Hollow cut in bridges and plates to receive various components.

Hand engraving technique, also called pounced ornament. Relief is a "trompe l'oeil" or optical illusion type of modelling in the manner of bas-relief, created using a graver.

Activity of the Grand Complications workshop. The watchmaker assembles, adjusts, files and balances movement parts. He adapts the parts to each other so that they run perfectly.

Repairing, restoring a watch to good working order. Refers to service or repair departments (ASS).

A hand with a tip moving over the arc of a circle instead of a circle. When it reaches the end of its path, it returns instantly to its point of departure. Retrograde hands may give various indications such as hours, minutes. Patek Philippe has several watch models with a perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand.

Metal often used to give a beautiful silvery colour to white gold (for watch exteriors) or for certain movement parts, especially bridges and plates. On the brass or the nickel silver of the latter, it also serves to protect against oxidisation.

Coating with a fine layer of rhodium by electrolysis.

Term used to describe D-colour (exceptional white +) or E-colour (exceptional white) diamonds.

System writing figures as letters: Roman numerals: I (1). V (5). X (10. L (50). C (100. D (500). M (1000).

Component of self-winding movements, synonymous with oscillating weight. The rotor is a heavy part which rotates or oscillates thanks to wrist movements and automatically winds the mainspring. Nonetheless, when the watch is not worn for a certain period of time, one resorts to manual winding to reactivate the accumulation of energy in the barrel. Patek Philippe rotors, which are mounted on ball-bearing mechanisms, are always in 18 or 22-carat gold. When they are particularly small in size, they are called mini-rotors.

On a rounding-off cutter, the watchmaker operates a milling-cutter to correct the teeth and the diameter. This operation is performed exclusively when restoring antique watches, or when the watchmaker is working on the basis of a movement blank.

Referred to in French as "bassiné", in reference to "bassine" type cases with rounded profile that are smooth all around. For example, certain hour markers are referred to as round-polished markers.

Complication that consists of indicating solar time (real time) thanks to a second minute hand.

Abbreviation for "centre sweep second hand" in the Patek Philippe typology.

Transparent synthetic material for watch glasses (or crystals) which has the property of being scratch-resistant. Gemstone, a variety of corundum. It is generally blue, but may be pink, yellow, etc.

Describes a shiny surface toned down by a slightly frosted effect.

Refers to a flaw on watch exterior parts: small line, shallow furrow.

A self-winding movement is a mechanical movement that is wound by wrist movements thanks to the oscillating weight (or rotor).

A stylus with a metal tip used to push the correctors. Setting styluses are made by Patek Philippe and delivered with all watches requiring them.

The side edge of the case reminiscent of the shafts of a stretcher : hence the French word "brancard", meaning stretcher.

Device facilitating the mobility of jewels so as to absorb shocks.

Abbreviation for "sidereal time" in the Patek Philippe typology.

A complication that displays sidereal time. It is based on the earth's rotation in relation to a fixed point, such as a star. It is invariable for a given point and shorter than the average time of 3 min. 56 sec. per day (23 hours, 56 minutes, 4 seconds /24 hours).

Sinking a recess or concave chamfer (slightly hollowed cut edge). Sinking the holes and wheels is an obligation under the Geneva Seal regulations.

See "Celestial canopy"

On a striking or minute repeater watch, the part that slides along the case middle to activate the striking mechanism or switches it to silent mode.

A potential characteristic of the mainspring. When the watch is worn, it is automatically wound constantly and when coiled to the maximum, excess tension might break the mainspring. The outermost tip of the spring is thus not entirely fixed. It is equipped with a slipping spring, a blade that slides intermittently against the inside wall of the drum equipped with three notches, if the tension becomes excessive.

Seconds indicated on a small subdial, and not in the centre.

Forming strokes on the surface of a part, using emery paper. There is a distinction between:

Date of the longest day and the shortest day of the year. There are two solstices per year, corresponding to the start of the summer and to that of the winter.

An additional complication within a chronograph. A split seconds chronograph features an additional seconds hand that is superimposed on the chronograph hand. It enables measurement of a lap or split time, without stopping the measurement in progress. This process can be repeated several times in a row. After displaying the split time, the additional seconds hand catches up with the chronograph hand.

A steel blade that pulls a lever to its point of departure.

A thin metal rod fixed between the horns/lugs (or attachments) of the case by means of two small holes on the side, for attaching the leather strap or metal bracelet. On Patek Philippe watches, the spring bars are in gold when the cases are in gold, since they wear out less when gold rubs against gold than when steel rubs against gold. This also diminishes the risk of the spring bar and case working loose and causing the strap/bracelet to drop off.

Abbreviation for "Skeleton" in the Patek Philippe typology.

Refers to a movement that is open worked and engraved by hand.

Type of wheel with large triangular teeth, periodically locked by a jumper-spring. Its shape resembles that of a star.

Metal cylindrical movement part.

Battery-driven motor which distributes the energy in a quartz movement. It plays the same role as the escapement in a mechanical movement.

Forming parallel strokes lengthwise along the flanks of certain components. Straight-graining the flanks is an aesthetic operation required to earn the Geneva Seal.

A complication which strikes or chimes (on request by operating a slide piece, or automatically). There are several types of striking mechanism. Patek Philippe produces the following types:

• Minute repeaters: they strike the hours, quarters and minutes, exclusively on request.
• Petites Sonneries: they automatically strike the full hours, and the quarters (without the hours) in passing the quarters. They also incorporate the minute repeater function.
• Grandes Sonneries: they automatically strike the full hours, and also the hours and quarters when passing the quarters. They also incorporate the minute repeater function.
• The Westminster chime housed in the Star Caliber 2000: this is the most complicated of all striking mechanisms. It faithfully reproduces the famous Westminster chime. It automatically strikes the quarters, by adding them up. At each full hour, it strikes first the four quarter-hours and then the hours.

Strip/band of leather (or other non-metal material) that holds the watch to the wrist.

Small cylinder driven or screwed in, serving as a support for a part to turn freely.

Abbreviation for "10 days power reserve" in the Patek Philippe typology

Measuring elapsed time by means of a chronograph.

Simultaneous indication of the time in several time zones. The most common models are dual time zone watches which give home time and local time in the place one is travelling to. Patek Philippe also produces a model called "World Time", which simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones.

Cutting a screw-thread on a rod or in a hole.

Abbreviation for "Tourbillon", in the Patek Philippe typology.

Refers to diamonds of F (Rare white+) or G (Rare white) colour.

A device invented in 1801 by A.-L. Breguet, eliminates variations in rate due to gravity, in vertical positions. The tourbillon comprises a mobile carriage carrying the escapement and balance and spring assembly components. Crafting it represents an impressive technical accomplishment. At Patek Philippe, 69 tiny parts are housed inside a space with a diameter of around 10 millimetres, and which together weigh just 0.3 grams.

Eliminating burrs or remaining scraps of material left after machining. Trimming is done using a triangular scraper and is intended to avoid the burrs dropping off over time and deteriorating the smooth running of the movement.

Refers to a bracelet in a composite material from the Aquanaut sports collection by Patek Philippe. Virtually indestructible even in a natural salt water or extremely cold environment, it is remarkably resistant to traction and to ultra-violet rays.

Fashioning with a lathe, whether hand-operated or engine-driven.

Fine pincers used to pick up small objects (always used in plural form).

Representing a contemporary interpretation of the Gondolo ladies' model, this collection inspired by the Art Deco movement is based on a double-shafted cambered case (4824). Twenty-4 watches lovingly caress the lines of the wrist by adopting a seductively curved silhouette, extended by a broad, yet extremely thin bracelet. They are available in two sizes (medium and small), three materials (steel, white or rose gold) , in jewelled watch and Haute Joaillerie versions.

Abbreviation for "24-hour dial", in the Patek Philippe typology.

Disequilibrium of a rotating part.

When referring to watches, means the gain or loss each day. This is particularly noticeable in a mechanical watch, and virtually nil in a quartz watch. It must fall within strict tolerance thresholds in order for the movement to be granted chronometer certification.

In a mechanical watch, the movement of the balance and spring assembly in one direction, forwards and backwards. In a quartz watch, the simple vibration of the quartz. A vibration is equivalent to a half-oscillation.

Case fitted with a watch movement which shows the time and various additional indications with varying degrees of complexity. Patek Philippe produces wristwatches and pocket watches.

See "Striking mechanism"

Circular movement part (wheel plate + pinion) that spins around an axis and transmits force or energy. At Patek Philippe, the wheels are chamfered, circular satin finished, sunk and gilded. Their teeth are polished by hand on a wooden grinding-wheel coated with abrasive paste.

Movement part which, together with a pinion, forms a wheel.

Winding the spring of a mechanical watch. This winding may be done manually or automatically by wrist movements.

Part of a mechanical watch, designed for winding:

Watch intended to be worn on the wrist. Patek Philippe produces mechanical and quartz wristwatches.

Watch intended to be carried in the pocket of a waistcoat. Patek Philippe produces Lépine or hunter pocket watches, which are exclusively mechanical.